[Photos] Gulangyu: Where Lim Bo Seng studied and Hokkien tycoons built their dreams [Eye on Fujian series]

(All photos courtesy of Chen Yu, unless otherwise stated.)

Xiamen (Amoy, 厦门) in Fujian province, one of the earliest five treaty ports in China, has been regarded as a hometown by many Hokkiens in Southeast Asia. Some may even claim a tie to Gulangyu (Kulangsu, 鼓浪屿), a small island located southwest off the Island of Xiamen.

Gulangyu, known as the “Island of Piano”, the “Island of Music” and the “Garden on the Sea”, earned these romantic nicknames as a favourite retreat for foreigners in Xiamen after the First Opium War (1839–1842) and following its designation as an international settlement by the Qing government in 1902.

Gazetted as a 5A Tourist Attraction in Xiamen, Gulangyu gained a position in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2017. The global recognition of Gulangyu is a tribute to its past as the “third home” of the Hokkien — after their ancestral homeland and the lands where they made their fortunes in Nanyang (the South Sea).

Gulangyu, separated from Xiamen by Lu Jiang (Egret River, 鹭江), is only accessible by ferries. Currently, there are three ferry terminals on Gulangyu. Lun Du (轮渡码头), the most convenient ferry terminal, is reserved for local people. San Qiu Tian (三丘田码头) and Nei Cuo Ao (内厝澳码头) ferry terminals are open to tourists. Although Gulangyu is small in land area, it is never easy to explore this car-free island on foot due to its undulating terrain, winding alleys and diverse landscape.

To navigate through Gulangyu, you need to orient yourself towards Ri Guang Yan (日光岩) or Ri Guang Rock, the highest point and foremost natural landmark on this island. Around it are two old quarters, namely, Yan Zai Jiao (岩仔脚) to its southeast and Nei Cuo Ao (内厝澳) to its northwest.

At the foot of Ri Guang Rock and hidden by a stretch of crenellated wall was the former residence of Ng Tiong Sun (黄仲训, 1876-1953). This Saigon-born Hokkien tycoon was deeply fond of Ri Guang Rock. Since 1916, he has built an impressive family compound there, including Xi Lin Villa (西林别墅) and Kan Qing Villa (瞰青别墅).

At the junction of Zhangzhou Road (漳州路) and Zhong Hua Road (中华路), where crowds of visitors throng, lies the historic centre of Gulangyu. While Xing Xian Temple (兴贤宫), once bustling with worshipers, was demolished during the Cultural Revolution, the former Recreation Ground (洋人球埔) opposite it continues to function as a sports field with a new name — People’s Sports Field (人民体育场). To the south stood the Masonic Lodge of Freemasonry, a secret society of Western elites in Xiamen, which held its inaugural meeting in 1878.

Located to the west of the Recreation Ground lies the former residence of Oei Ik Tjoe (黄奕住, 1868-1945), one of the four Sugar Kings in Indonesia. This barber-turned-tycoon decided to return to Fujian and settled on Gulangyu in 1919.

Oei acquired one of the best sites on Gulangyu, which was formerly owned by Tait & Co. His enormous wealth helped him turn his lifelong dream into a splendid building complex with a magnificent garden facing Ri Guang Yan. Huang Jia Hua Yuan (黄家花园), as the locals called it, had been used as a government hotel for years before Oei Ik Tjoe’s descendants resumed stewardship of this family estate.

Lu Er Jiao (鹿耳礁), a stretch of land between the Recreation Ground and the Lun Du Ferry, once housed many wealthy Hokkien tycoons who returned from Southeast Asia. Thus, the streets were initially named Fujian Road, Manila Road, Cebu Road and Singapore Road.

Ng Tiong Sun had another gorgeous mansion there — Huang Rong Yuan Tang (黄荣远堂), which he won in a bet with his friend. Opposite it stands Hai Tian Tang Gou (海天堂构), the former residence of Uy Siu Liong (黄秀烺, 1859-1925), a Jinjiang businessman who returned from the Philippines. He acquired the site of the Amoy Club in 1899 to build this complex of five blocks. The central block was the most remarkable for its Chinese Renaissance architecture style.

Another must-visit in Lu Er Jiao is the former estate of Banqiao Lin Family (板桥林家), one of the richest families in Taiwan during the late Qing period.

After the Japanese occupation of Taiwan in 1895, Lin Wei Yuan (林维源, 1840-1905), the patriarch, led his family back to Xiamen. He acquired a bungalow from a British and subsequently built a smaller one next to it. His son, Lim Nee Kar (林尔嘉, 1874-1951), added to this family compound a small mansion in 1913 and an octagonal-shaped block in 1915.

Moreover, Lim Nee Kar purchased a vast expanse of beachfront at the foot of a cliff in 1914, where he built Shu Zhuang Garden (菽庄花园). This garden with a stunning seaview was known as a venue for socialising with prominent families in Xiamen.  

The beach along Shu Zhuang Garden extends eastwards to a tranquil area named Tian Wei (田尾), where the French consul, the manager of Swire & Co. and the deputy commissioner of customs had their homes. Malayan war hero, Lim Bo Seng (林谋盛, 1909-1944), lived in this area when he was pursuing his studies in the Anglo-Chinese College on Gulangyu. His father, Lim Loh (林路, 1852-1929), a building magnate in Singapore, acquired a property in this prestigious area in 1903.

When approaching Nei Cuo Ao, the roads get narrower and steeper. At the southern foot of Bi Jia Hill (笔架山) stand the twin buildings of Oei Tiong Ham (黄仲涵, 1866–1924), another Sugar King of Indonesia and one of the richest Chinese of his time. After his death in Singapore, the Mixed Court (会审公堂) occupied the estate for several years. Established in 1903 by the Chinese government, this court handled criminal and civil cases involving Chinese nationals on Gulangyu.

The adjacent property on the higher ground belonged to Dr Lim Boon Keng (林文庆, 1869-1957). This prominent Straits Chinese businessman and doctor married Grace Yin Peck Ha (殷碧霞, 1884-1972), a Gulangyu lady, in 1908. Dr Lim and his family lived in this mansion, which had a panoramic view of Lu Jiang, during his tenure as president of Amoy University from 1921 to 1937.

Gulangyu, with its high density of eclectic mansions built by Hokkiens, stands as a testament to the latter’s desire — during a turbulent era — for a retreat from ancestral villages and host lands. The houses that embodied their dreams survive as heritage, even though the families’ memories have faded into the past.

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