photo story

[Photos] Northern Xinjiang: A kaleidoscope of vivid colours and rich culture

The Guozigou Bridge facilitates transport between the Ili River and other parts of Xinjiang, significantly boosting economic development. However, it has also become one of the newest attractions in the area. Apart from taking the mandatory canyon shots at the Guozigou viewing deck, many tourists also mount the horses of local herders and capture a “life photo” against the backdrop of the bridge, a testament to the juxtaposition of nature and culture, and of perilous peaks and human wisdom.
The Guozigou Bridge facilitates transport between the Ili River and other parts of Xinjiang, significantly boosting economic development. However, it has also become one of the newest attractions in the area. Apart from taking the mandatory canyon shots at the Guozigou viewing deck, many tourists also mount the horses of local herders and capture a “life photo” against the backdrop of the bridge, a testament to the juxtaposition of nature and culture, and of perilous peaks and human wisdom.
14 Feb 2025
culture
Hedy Yang
By Hedy Yang
Journalist, Lianhe Zaobao
Ngoh Shian Bang
By Ngoh Shian Bang
Photojournalist, Lianhe Zaobao
Translated by Grace Chong
A trip to northern Xinjiang in the fall is an unforgettable experience, replete with captivating scenery, lush nature, a vibrant cultural heritage and delicious cuisine. Lianhe Zaobao journalist Hedy Yang and photojournalist Ngoh Shian Bang give us a glimpse of the region’s beauty and appeal.

(Photos: Ngoh Shian Bang/SPH Media)

Situated in northwest China, Xinjiang has become a popular destination among the Chinese in recent years. However, it is still a mysterious land largely untrodden by foreign visitors. 

When I first heard the publicity slogan “Damei Xinjiang” (大美新疆), I thought that da (大, big) referred to the extent of Xinjiang’s beauty. Only after visiting Xinjiang did I realise that da and mei describe Xinjiang to a T. 

Xinjiang is China’s largest province-level administrative region. This vast and resource-rich land seems to have it all; it boasts plateaus, basins, deserts and mountains, and its speciality products range from sweet fruits and seeds to abundant oil. Though the sparsely populated region comprises one-sixth of China’s land area, it contains less than 2% of its population. Yet all 56 recognised non-Han ethnic groups are represented in its population.  

Xinjiang’s beauty varies with each season. Let me bring you on a visual tour of the splendour of northern Xinjiang in autumn. 

Located within the Altai Mountains of Altay prefecture in northern Xinjiang, Kanas Lake reaches a maximum depth of 188.5 metres, making it the deepest alpine freshwater lake in China. Every September and October, the forests, comprising mainly Chinese fir, poplar and white birch trees, turn crimson and gold, contrasting beautifully with the perpetually snow-capped mountains. This breathtaking scenery has earned it the reputation of being the “ceiling” (the best of its kind, unsurpassable) of China’s autumn scenery.
A forest path winding along the river sits between Moon Bay and Wolong Bay. As you stroll along the path, take in the sight of birds flitting among the trees and the gurgling sound of flowing water, and exchange greetings with herders tending to their livestock in the forest meadows. Even during peak tourist season, the forest path remains a tranquil haven where you can commune quietly with nature.
Approximately 2,000 Tuva people have lived in the ancient Tuva villages within the Kanas, Baihaba and Hemu scenic areas for a long time. The Tuva people, a branch of the Mongolian ethnic group, reside primarily in the Republic of Tuva within the Russian Federation. The tribes living in Xinjiang could be descendants of Genghis Khan’s westward expansion forces or immigrants from Siberia in the 17th century. This remains inconclusive.
During the peak tourist seasons of summer and autumn, the characteristic wooden houses of the Tuva settlements turn into guesthouses, allowing visitors to experience the authentic architecture, cuisine, culture, and music of these semi-nomadic people, and watch children play in the warm glow of the setting sun.
Known as the “number one village of northwest China”, Baihaba village is located on the bank of the border river separating China and Kazakhstan, with a straight-line distance of less than 3 kilometres from Kazakhstan. A drive from Kanas to Baihaba in autumn is a unique and charming experience — you will pass through the Tielieketi Grand Canyon on the China-Kazakhstan border and golden forests.
The border town of Baihaha recently experienced a boost in tourism during the summer of 2024 due to the popularity of a Chinese mini-series called To the Wonder (《我的阿勒泰》), which was predominantly filmed in Baihaba. To deal with the growing number of tourists, many new wooden cabins were built in the village, some of which were still under construction beneath green tarpaulins, even during autumn.
The grassland underfoot, the forests stretching to the mountains before you, and the snowy peaks in the distance — these are northern Xinjiang’s quintessential autumn scenes.
Urumqi’s Hotan 2nd Road (和田二街) is a gourmet street. Fruit vendors hawking their wares from rickshaws, food trucks offering yoghurt zongzi and shaved ice and a baozi stall situated next to a butcher selling freshly baked baozi all speak of the city’s vibrancy.
Skewers are a must-try in Xinjiang. The most authentic way to prepare them is to skewer fresh beef or lamb onto salt cedar branches, marinate them in a secret spice blend, grill them over charcoal until they sizzle and drip with fat, and then dust locally-produced cumin powder and chilli powder on the meat to finish. Taking a bite of these meat skewers and washing it down with a mouthful of beer is the perfect way to warm up from the inside out on a cool day.
Xinjiang’s baked naan comes in a variety of sizes and flavours, from sesame and onion to rose jam, chilli and meat fillings. At dinnertime, naan bakers constantly pull fresh, piping hot naan from the tandoor, never worrying about not being able to sell everything. In Xinjiang, naan can be kept for a few weeks without going bad.
The Xinjiang International Grand Bazaar in Urumqi is a must-visit tourist destination. Here, every distinctive building hides a world of its own, while the maze-like commercial streets offer a dazzling array of handicrafts, local specialties and delicious food — a one-stop feast for the senses.
A few hundred metres away from the grand bazaar is Jinquan Shopping Mall, a popular shopping destination for both locals and tourists. Here, you can find souvenir magnets at half the price of those sold in the scenic areas, walls covered with patterned fabric, and clothes made from ethnic Uighur Etles silk. Also on sale are traditional Uighur clothing, and intricately made curtains and carpets.
On the third floor of Jinquan Shopping Mall, a Uighur woman works her craft on a sewing machine at the entrance of a store, stitching together brightly colored traditional garments.
The air of Karamay reeks of petroleum. Ascending the Baili Oilfield Observation Deck at dawn and watching tens of thousands of pumpjacks working tirelessly through the night and into the fiery sunrise will leave you in awe of the transformative power of industrial and technological advancements over the past century.
Karamay means “black oil” in Uighur language. This is a city born from oil and for oil. Stretching 150 kilometres, the Karamay Oilfield was once China’s largest in the 1950s. It was also around that time that the nearby city began to see permanent settlement.
Sayram Lake, nestled within the northern Tianshan Mountains in northwestern Xinjiang, sits at about 2,074 metres above sea level and is Xinjiang’s highest and largest alpine lake. It is also the furthest place that the warm, humid air currents of the Atlantic Ocean can reach, earning it the title “the last teardrop of the Atlantic”.
People say that Sayram Lake’s most beautiful season is summer, where pastures are lush green and flowers are in full bloom. But in the crisp autumn weather, watching the sunset smoulder against a backdrop of undulating mountains and waiting for the clouds to disperse to reveal the starry sky allows you to experience the wild solitude of the northwest and the vastness of nature.
Not far from Sayram Lake, a steel dragon weaves through the majestic and imposing mountains: the Guozigou Bridge that opened in 2011. Spanning about 700 metres in length, the bridge cost a whopping 2.39 billion RMB (approximately US$326 million) to build, and is one of the most expensive bridges per unit length in China.

This article was first published in Lianhe Zaobao as “北疆 浓墨重彩秋色萧萧”.

Xinjiang
Nature
Culture
Food
Beauty
Seasons
Humanity
Tradition
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